Question 4

A wave with height H = 0.4 m and period T = 12 s is propagating over water with a constant depth

of h = 15 m.

a) Using Le Mehaute's abacus, determine if the wave is linear, nonlinear, or breaking

b) Determine the wavelength L and wavenumber k

c) Based on your answer to (b), is the wave classified as shallow, deep, or intermediate?

d) Calculate the phase velocity (cp) and group velocity (c) of the wave

e) At the location x = 0, plot the wave profile at the free surface (n) over two consecutive wave

periods

f) At the location x = 0 and z = -5 m, plot the horizontal (u) and vertical (w) fluid velocity over two

consecutive wave periods

g) At the location x = 0 and z = -10 m, plot the horizontal (u) and vertical (w) fluid velocity over

two consecutive wave periods/nh) At the location x = 0 and z = 0 (i.e., the SWL), plot the dynamic pressure (p) over two

consecutive wave periods