Question COURSEWORK BRIEFING SHEET
COURSE MODULE (and code):
ASSIGNMENT TITLE:
Coastal and Estuary Processes (CIVE487)
Wave Theory
Aims:
The exercise is designed to allow students to (1) use linear wave theory for the
solution of a series of simple problems of practical importance and to consider its
limits of applicability and (2) carry out time domain analysis for the short-term random
wave record.
Details:
1. Use linear wave theory to complete the following table:
Wave
height,
Water
depth,
Wave-
length,
H (m)
d (m)
L (m)
Wave
period,
T (s)
Wave
celerity,
C (m/s)
(i)
3
5+i
40
(ii)
2
10+i
7
(iii)
1
15+i
8
i is the last digit of your student ID
2. What parameters are used to establish whether waves may be satisfactorily
described by linear wave theory?
[30 marks]
[10 marks] 3. Classify the wave conditions in question 1 as either linear or non-linear and
indicate, for the non-linear condition(s), an analytical theory (or theories)
suitable for describing the waves.
[10 marks]
4. For the case(s) for which linear wave theory is identified as unsuitable in
question 3, note what effects the non-linearity would have on the calculated
values in question 1.
[10 marks]
5. Estimate the wave group velocity in a water depth of 30m if the wave period is
9s.
[10 marks]
6. Estimate the wave power per unit length of wave crest in a train of regular
waves if the wave height is 2m, the wavelength is 50m and the water depth is
15m.
[10 marks]
7. A wave record taken during a storm is analysed by zero up crossing and
contains 205 waves. The average wave height is 1.72m. Using Rayleigh
distribution to
i) estimate Hs, Hrms and H₁/10-
ii)
determine the number of wave in the record that would exceed 2.0+i/10
(i is the last digit of your student ID)
[20 marks] d/Lo
C
d/L
kd
tanh kd
sinh kd
cosh kd
n =
7007
K
S
0.0000
0.0010 0.0126 0.079
0.0011 0.0132 0.083
0.0012 0.0138 0,087
0.0013 0.0144 0.091
0,0014 0.0149 0,094
0.0000
0.000
0.000
0.079 0.079 1.003
0.083 0.083
1.003
0,087 0.087 1,004
0.000
1.000 1.000
0.998 2.515
0.998
2.457
0.997
2.404
: 0.090
0,091
1.004
0.997
2.357
0.094
0.094 1.004
0.997
2,314
0.0015
0.0155
0.0016 0.0160 0.100
0.0017 0.0165
0.0018 0.0170
0.0019 0.0174
0.097
0.097
0,097 1,005
0.997
2,275
0.100
0.101 1.005
0.997
2,239
0.104
0.103
0.104
1,005
0.996
2,205
0.107
0.106
0.107
1.006
0.996
2,174
0.109 0.109
0.110 1.006
0.996
2,146
0.0020 0.0179
0.0022
0.112
0.112
0.113
1,006
0.996 2,119
0.0188 0.118
0.117
0.118
1.007
0,0024
0.995 2.069
0.0196
0,123
0,122 0.123
0.0026
1.008
0.995
2.025
0,0204
0,128
0.127
0.129
1.008
0.995 1.986
0.0028 0.0212
0.133
0.132
0.133
1.009
0.994 1,950
0,0030
0,0219 0.138
0.137
0.138
1.009
0,0032
0,994
1.917
0,0226 0.142
0.141
0.143
1,010
0,0034 0,0233
0,0036
0.993 1,887
0.147
0,146
0.147
1.011
0,993
1.859
0,0240
0.151
0.150
0.0038
0.152 1.011 0.992
1.834
0.0247 0.155
0.154
0.156
1,012
0.992
1.810
0,0040
0.0253 0.159
0.158
0,160
1,013
0.992
0.0042
0.0044 0.0266 0.167
0.0046 0,0272 0.171
0.0048 0,0278
1.787
0.0260 0.163
0.162
0,164
1,013 0.991
1,766
0.166 0,168
1.014
0.991
1.746
0.169
0.172
1.015
0.990
1.727
0.175
0.173
0,175
1.015
0.990 1,710
0,0050 0.0284
0,0055
0.178 0,176
0.179
1.016
0.990 1,693
0.0298
0,187
0.185
0.188
0,203
0,0095
0.0060 0.0311 0.195
0.0065 0.0324
0.0070 0,0336
0.0075 0,0348
0.221 1.024
0.0080 0.0360 0.226 0.222 0.228 1,026
0,0085 0,0371 0,233 0.229 0.235 1.027
0.0090 0.0382 0.240 0,236 0,242
0.0393 0.247 0.242 0.249
0.193
0.197
0,201
0.205
1.018 0,989
1.019 0.987
1.021
1.654
1,620
0,986 1,589
0,211 0.208
0,213 1.022
0,985 1,561
0,219 0,215
0.984 1,536
0.983 1.512
0.982
1.491
1,029
0.981
1.471
1.031 0.980
1.452
Linear wave theory, table of functions C
d/Lo
d/L
kd
tanh kd
sinh kd
cosh kd
n =
KS
5
0.0100
0.0403
0.253
0.248
0.256
1.032
0.979
1,435
0.0110
0,0120
0.0423 0,266 0.260
0.0443 0.278
0,269
1.036
0,271
0.282
0,0130
0.0140
0,0461 0.290
0.0479
0,282
0,294
0,977 1.403
1,039 0,975 1,375
1,042 0.973 1.350
0.301 0,292
0.306
1.046
0.971
1,327
0.0150 0.0496
0,0160 0,0513 0.322
0.0170 0,0530 0.333 0.321
0.0180 0.0546
0,312
0,302
0.317
1.049
0.969
1.307
0,312
0.328
1.052
0.967
1.288
0.339
1.056
0.965
1,271
0.343
0.330
0.350 1.059
0,963
1.255
0.0190
0,0561
0.353
0,339
0.360
1.063
0.961
1.240
0,0200
0.0576
0,362
0,347
0.370 1.066
0.959
0,0220 0.0606
1.226
0.381
0,363
0.390
1.073
0.955
0.0240 0.0634
1.201
0.398
0,379
0.409
1.080
0.951
0.0260
1.179
0.0661 0,416
0,393
0.428
1.088
0.947
0.0280 0.0688
1,159
0.432
0.407
0.446
1.095 0.943
1.141
0.0300
0.0713 0.448
0,420
0.463 1,102
0,939
1.125
0.0320
0,0738 0.464
0.0340 0,0763 0.479
0,0360 0.0787
0,0380 0,0810
0.433
0.481 1.110 0.935
1.111
0.446
0.509
0,494 0.458
0.469
0.498
0.515 1.125
0.531 1.132
1.117 0.931
1.098
0,927
1.086
0.923
1.075
0,0400 0.0833
0.0440
0.0420 0.0855 0,537 0,491
0.523
0.480
0.548
1.140
0.919
1.064
0.564
1.148 0.915
1.055
0.0877 0,551
0,501
0.580
1,156
0.911
1,046
0,0460
0,0480 0.0920 0.578
0.0899 0.565
0.512
0,595
1.164 0.908
1,038
0,521
0,611
1.172
0.904
1.030
0,0500
0.0942 0,592
0.531
0,627
1.180 0.900
0,0550
1,023
0,0993 0,624
0.554
0.665
1.201 0.890
1.007
0,0600 0,1043 0.655
0.0650 0.1092 0.686
0.0700 0,1139 0,716
0,575
0.703
1.223
0.881
0.993
0,595 0.741
1,245
0.872 0.981
0,614
0,779
1.267
0.863
0.971
0,0750 0.1186 0,745 0.632 0.816
0.0800 0.1232 0,774 0.649
0,0850 0,1277 0,803 0.665
0.0900 0,1322 0.831 0,681
0.0950 0.1366 0,858 0.695
1,291
0.854
0.962
0,854
1,315 0.845
0.955
0.892
1.340 0.836
0,948
0.929 1,365 0.827
0.968 1.392
0.942
0.819
0.937
Linear wave theory, table of functions (continued) C
d/Lo
d/L
kd
tanh kd
sinh kd
cosh kd
n =
0.1000
0.1100
0,1410 0,886
0.1496
0,1200 0.1581 0,994
0.1300 0,1666
0.1400 0.1750
0.709
1,006
1,419
0.810
0.933
0.940
0.735
1.085
1.475
0.794
0.926
0,759
1,165
1,536
0.778
0.920
1.047
0.780
1,248
1.600
0.762
0.917
1.099 0,800
1,334
1.668
0,747
0.915
0.1500
0.1833
1.152
0,818
1.424
1.740
0,732
0.913
0.1600
0.1916
1.204
0.835
1,517
1.817
0,718
0.913
0.1700 0,2000
1.256
0.850
1.614
1,899
0.705
0.913
0,1800 0.2083
0.1900 0.2167 1.362
0.2000
0.2200 0.2421
1,309 0,864
1,716
1.986
0.692
0.914
0.877 1.823
2,079
0.680 0.916
0.2251
1,414
0.888
1.521
0.909
0,2400 0.2592 1,629
0.926
1.936
2,179 2,397
2.451
2.179
0.668 0.918
0.2600 0,2766 1.738
0.940
2.755
2,647
2,931
0.2800 0,2942
1.849
0.952
3,097 3.255
0,646 0,923
0.626
0.608 0.936
0.592 0.942
0.929
0.3000 0,3121
1.961
0,961
3,483
3.624
0.578
0.949
0,3200
0,3400 0.3486 2.190
0.3303 2,075
0,969
3,920
4,045
0,565
0,955
0,975
4,414
4.525 0.555
0.961
0.3600 0.3672 2.307
0.3800 0.3860 2,425
0.980
4,973 5.073
0.546
0.967
0.984
5,608 5,697
0.538
0.972
0,4000 0.4050
0.4200 0,4241 2,665
0.4400 0,4434 2.786
0.4600 0.4628
2,544
0.988
6,329
6,407 0.531
0.976
0.990 7.147
7.216 0.526
0.980
0.992
8.075 8.137
0.521
0.983
2,908
0.994
9.129
9.183
0,517 0.986
0,4800
0.4822
3.030
0,995
10,32
10,37
0.514 0,988
0.5000 0.5018 3.153
0,996
11,68
11,73
0.512
0.990
0,5500 0,5511 3,463
0.998
15,93
15,96
0.507 0,994
0.6000 0.6006 3.774
0,6500 0,6504 4.086 0.999 29.75 29.77 0,502
0.999
21,76
21,79
0.504
0.997
0,998
0.7000 0,7002 4.400
1,000
40.70
40,71 0.501
0,999
0.7500 0.7501 4,713 1,000 55,70 55.71 0.501
0,8000 0.8001 5.027 1.000 76,23 76,24 0.500
0,8500 0.8500 5.341 1,000 104.4 104.4 0.500
0.9000 0.9000 5,655 1.000 142,9 142,9 0.500
0.9500 0.9500 5.969 1.000 195,6 195.6
0.500
1.0000
0.999
1.000
1.000
1.000
1.000
1.0000 6.283 1.000 267.8 267,8
0,500 1.000
Linear wave theory, table of functions