question 4 a wave with height h 0 4 m and period t 12 s is propagating

Question

Question 4
A wave with height H = 0.4 m and period T = 12 s is propagating over water with a constant depth
of h = 15 m.
a) Using Le Mehaute's abacus, determine if the wave is linear, nonlinear, or breaking
b) Determine the wavelength L and wavenumber k
c) Based on your answer to (b), is the wave classified as shallow, deep, or intermediate?
d) Calculate the phase velocity (cp) and group velocity (cg) of the wave
e) At the location x = 0, plot the wave profile at the free surface (n) over two consecutive wave
periods
f) At the location x = 0 and z = -5 m, plot the horizontal (u) and vertical (w) fluid velocity over two
consecutive wave periods
g) At the location x = 0 and z = -10 m, plot the horizontal (u) and vertical (w) fluid velocity over
two consecutive wave periods
h) At the location x = 0 and z = 0 (i.e., the SWL), plot the dynamic pressure (p) over two
consecutive wave periods